
Pictured above is Hayley Morley, a UK size 12 model who spurred controversy when she brought some realism to the runway. Hayley and two other ''curvy'' women appeared alongside stick-figure thin models in Mark Fast's London Fashion Week show last Saturday. The biggest shocker is that their inclusion prompted Fast's stylist and creative designer to walk out over ''creative differences.''
Luckily, two freelancers stepped in to help with the show. Amanda May, Fast's creative director, told the UK's Daily Mail that the designer '''wanted women to know they didn't have to be a size zero to wear a Mark Fast dress.'' This is not the first time Fast has opened his mind to the idea of using life-sized women on the runway: he is also involved in All Walks Beyond The Catwalk, an initiative that uses models up to size 16 and age 65 to show-off threads. It's one small step in ending the fashion industry's obsession with emaciated-looking women.
Photo courtesy of Fiona Garden
The opinions expressed on the BUST blog are those of the authors themselves and do not necessarily reflect the position of BUST Magazine or its staff.

written by susanj, September 23, 2009
written by Kath, September 24, 2009
written by Alibelle, September 24, 2009
written by AG Sherman, September 24, 2009
As an "outsider" designer, I dress models occasionally. When I put my designs on a model, my intention is to capture my artistic vision. People respond to that vision, and see the clothes as something they want in their lives. My vision for the world i wish to create does not include suffering, or worse: fetishizing, or even making glamorous, unhealthy life choices, like "herion chic" did in the 90's. Nor do I think reflecting the mundane world should be a prerequisite for art.
People mimic what models do, consciously or unconsciously, because they are inspired by art and their environments. I will not spend months perfecting a garment, a statement of myself, only to send it out into the world haphazardly.
written by AG Sherman, September 24, 2009
Further, I think someone who is seriously ill is welcome to shop, should they wish to do so, but for crying out loud, sometimes appearances aren't that high on one's priority list.
written by Pheas, September 24, 2009
written by Bjorn, September 24, 2009
http://www.chicktellectual.com/content/wonderbra-redeemed-katie-green-scene
Fashion will always be about unrealistic beauty ideals, because that's what captures the eye and the imagination. Right now we are obsessed, for some reason, with skinny and youth. But we are also obsessed with perfect skin, (all fashion photos today are heavily airbrushed), various makeup oddities, and what have you. Models are the very most beautiful people, by some arbitrary standard. People want to be as beautiful as them, but if they were... they'd be models. Normalizing weight might help, but we will still make people feel insecure with bizarre, specific, unrealistic, and frankly freakish beauty ideals. (not that I don't fall into the trap)
What I think we need is better education about the power of media so we aren't so susceptible to it, not congratulating a few token people who manage to fit the unrealistic mold despite being a slightly "healthier" version of it.
written by Katy, September 24, 2009
written by Liz, September 24, 2009
written by squeakydingo, September 24, 2009
written by Bryn, September 24, 2009
Kath asked: "why does healthy have to be a criteria?" well, obviously it doesn't, as the clear standard of most designers is to use emaciated young women. Healthy is nowhere NEAR the criteria. It's an industry that actively promotes eating disorders and intentionally promotes insecurity- by providing an impossible "ideal" so we buy products to "feel better". It's called "retail therapy"... It's marketing- create the problem and provide a solution. and the models are all so young, because a person can only maintain an unhealthy body weight for so long before their hair starts to fall out, their skin dries up and fine hair starts to grow all over their body...
I know this because I am a counsellor who has been working in eating disorder treatment for the past 10 years. I get the see the real side of how these situations inevitably end up, and it's not so pretty.
I so commend designers who make the "controversial" choice to use models who represent more of the average shape. By doing this they are helping to remind us that every body is different and that women and girls should not have to kill themselves to reach some kind of fictional idea of beauty. It's a minor step, but a step nonetheless. I can't believe that it's contoversial... do we hate really hate women and ourselves so much?
I think that stuff like this keeps us discussing image and body and beauty, which keeps us FROM discussing the what's really important, like our lives, careers, passions and interests...
written by Danyell, September 24, 2009
Pheas- that comment is largely true. Thin woman are selected for the runway, not as a beauty standard, but to have as little impact on the look as possible. So it's really the truest form of objectifying- the women don't even matter.
written by Ellen Fraser, September 24, 2009
written by Bryn, September 24, 2009
Every body is different. Most- like about 98% of publications represent the "non-curvaceous" body type- AKA the "straight up and down". Be happy sister that you get so much representation... and maybe be happy for the rest of us girls who don't fall into that category for the sliver of representation we got by the choice of this designer to use TWO "average size" models in ALL OF LONDON FASHION WEEK... seriously.
written by Kris, September 24, 2009
I try to be a strong woman and not pay attention to that sort of thing, but I can't help but feel like I'm unable to find clothes that fit anymore, and feel like I'm blimp-sized. I'm a size 12, and I'm within a healthy body mass index, so why should I feel I should become UNHEALTHY by lowering my weight to a range that's not good for my body, just so I can buy clothes at most stores?
It makes no sense to me.
written by iss, September 24, 2009
This focusing on skinny vs. big, bones vs. curves is just another way to pit women against women, much like the childfree vs. childbearing debate and the working class vs. stay at home mother issue.
Quit clawing at each other, it's just another way to keep women focusing on other women instead of real issues!
And if you claim to be a feminist of any degree, DON'T JUDGE
written by Kath, September 24, 2009
written by emcee3, September 24, 2009
Very weary of Bust trotting another retread of this subject in the name of feminism and equality. By reading these posts, a Bust blogger must realize by now that this does not spark a lively debate, as much as another "us vs them" in the size war.
Ladies, pick your team.
Back to work now...
written by iss, September 24, 2009
As a personal note from a teeny weeny person who is healthy and who does eat, the double standard that is applied to skinny people seems counterproductive to the idea that most size 10's are trying to promote, which is no one has a right to tell someone else what size they need to be. The throwing around of words like unhealthy, emaciated, being referred to as a stick or a coathanger....if an article popped up riddled with blob, sack of fat, that implied that the women being referenced looked that way because of their diet, or any other equally offensive descriptives of large women, there would be an outcry. And rightfully so. But why no outcry for the skinny sistas? Do you think it's not as offensive to have people assume that I am unhealthy or that I starve myself as it is for my larger lady friends to have people assume they gorge themselves or are themselves unhealthy. Ladies, of all sizes, STOP TELLING OTHER WOMEN HOW THEY NEED TO LOOK!
written by Leanne, September 24, 2009
written by Alibelle, September 24, 2009
Ok, I'll tell that to my friend in chemo who wants a nice wig to cover her head. Appearance is important to people, it's what we show the world. People in wheelchairs, people with missing limbs, people with AIDS, they are no exception.
written by iss again, September 24, 2009
What a bunch of spoiled little babies we are
written by teri, September 24, 2009
Next thing you know people will be mad that models are usually pretty.
written by SL, September 24, 2009
The average size woman currently is a size 14. I think those of us who are "average" are just getting tired of never seeing ourselves reflected in media. Things like this, and Glamour using a couple curvier models or what not, get us all excited, but also seem to fuel all the thin-hating. And there is probably resentment because thin has been the norm for so long. Why can't we all just love ourselves the way we are, and get on with it?
Here's some more on averages, which is kind of fascinating:
http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/1427447/the_average_woman_how_close_do_you.html
written by mel, September 24, 2009
written by Angela, September 24, 2009
I don't think including "bigger" models in runway fashion generates anything but publicity for the designer.
written by Theresa, September 24, 2009
written by Dixie, September 24, 2009
written by Dixie, September 24, 2009
written by maggie, September 24, 2009
Articles like this are walking-on-eggshell type of material, and I don't think any bust staffer is promoting hate toward women of ANY sizes, just writing about a happening that DID promote a woman of a different size in an industry that starves people (yes, STARVES them, as in models DIED LAST YEAR at the same event). Come on now, pick your battles wisely...
written by Alba, September 24, 2009
To me, being a real woman is embracing the body that you were born with, and while some of these models and celebrities ARE naturally skinny, a lot of times the pressure to fit a certain mold leads them to starve themselves, which then makes them look emaciated and sick, and THAT is not cool. That said, I would personally like to see more models of normal average sizes, because lately all I see are either your typical skinny models or plus sized models but nothing in between (ironically I also have trouble finding cute clothes that fit my average size, as normal fashion stores sell tiny clothes and edgy stores for "women" sell clothes that are way too big for me).
written by Alisande, September 24, 2009
written by carolita, September 25, 2009
Paradoxically I'm considered fat by fashionistas, and skinny ("emaciated") by so-called "normal" people. I consider myself perfectly normal, -- I eat three (or four) healthy meals a day, and exercise three times a week, and even have dessert when I feel like it, I'm not making a huge effort to be my size, just an effort not to get osteoporosis or heart disease -- and would like to see people my size, who are neither overweight nor over-skinny, in clothes in glam photos, too.
PS - I'm 44 and a size 6, but in my 20s I was a size 2 and in my 30s, a size 4 -- it was my natural body weight. I'm 5'8, and love walking everywhere and not sitting on my ass all day (even when I worked in an office for a while, I put all the printers and faxes on the other side of the room so I'd have an excuse to get up and trot over to them).
Frankly, I DON'T appreciate being called fat by fashionistas, nor emaciated by jealous women who have issues to the point of being mean to people who wear a smaller dress size than them.
written by taylor, September 25, 2009
written by Mytwocents, September 25, 2009
And slender sisters, I think we're beautiful, but really, in terms of what is represented as the ideal figure in fashion and media, the thing we're all supposed to strive for, we have nothing to complain about. I mean boo fuckin hoo, I can't find a bra small enough...I'm so slender, I see my body type in every magazine and tv show and movie...someone tells me I should eat more...
I feel lucky that I don't have to wear a bra. That I can eat whatever I want and not much happens.
Let's stop whining and support all women, because whatever snide comments we have to endure, they are nothing compared to what our bigger sisters have to put up with.
written by Diana, September 25, 2009
I hope they never work in the fashion industry again.
written by Jen, September 25, 2009
i love this! i would like to see more “normal” sized models, not “plus-sized” and not super skinny model-sized. These women are hardly plus size by fashion industry standards, they are actually normal, healthy size, which I think (being healthy) should be the standard for beauty, not super big, and not excruciatingly thin. I hope to see more things like this…"
As a feminist, as a size 20, and as a woman who battled an eating disorder for most of her life I'm truly offended by your words. A woman who is plus size is no more likely to be unhealthy than a a "healthy size" (as you call it) woman is to be healthy. Some of us are just built larger. I'd bet my rent money on my cholesterol, blood pressure, and blood sugar being better than yours, but because I'm "super big" (once again, as you call it) you make the rash judgment that I must be pounding back bacon cheeseburgers while sitting on my fat ass all day. Beauty and health come in all shapes and sizes. You, my faux feminist nemesis, are part of what's wrong with our culture.
written by Andrea, September 25, 2009
We place WAY too much significance on what is "normal" or "healthy." And using models who are larger than your normal model seems to me more of a publicity stunt than an attempt to change the world.
written by tiki, September 26, 2009
written by Tiki, September 26, 2009
written by BETH, September 27, 2009
written by Alibelle, September 28, 2009
What's always ugly is hate.
written by LG, September 28, 2009
written by lis, September 30, 2009
way to go!
written by elizabeth olsen, October 03, 2009
Fashion should be about art, beauty, creativity and expression for all,, instead of the exclusive, abusive, manipulative, degrading, and non-compassionate industry it has become.
Furthermore this anoexic trend comes from an industry run by predominately males, who do not, and could never live up to the "beauty" standards imposed on women.
written by MissB, October 06, 2009
However, even though I have a health condition that asks me to "diet" (or rather eat with common sense, in my opinion)and exercise as much as possible; my body at 5'4" and 170 pounds, I am somewhat happy where my body is. Meditation and the simple act of actually feeling your body in the moment can do wonders for your self-image.
written by replica bag, December 04, 2009
Well Elizabeth has very good point here that " this trend comes from an industry run by predominately males, who do not, and could never live up to the "beauty" standards imposed on women."
Which is very true !!
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