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bustygirl
discotheque, what is your hip size? I can probably tell you what your pattern size is.

One thing I should tell you is that even with proper pattern sizing, some dresses will fit differently than others
depending on the cut and the fabric. Knits, blousy fabrics, and bias cut stuff will be a little baggier, and woven
or fitted stuff will be a little tighter. Keep this in mind when choosing your pattern, because the tighter the fit
is, the more seam allowance you want to give yourself in case you have to let it out once you try it on.
discotheque
Thank you for helping. My hip size is 35".
bustygirl
Okay. You are in between a standardized 14 and 16
pattern size. A 14 is 36-28-38, and a 16 is
38-30-40. what this means is that on patterns
that are more fitted or out of less forgiving
fabrics, you should use the larger pattern and
take in the bust and the hips, and for looser,
knit, or more forgiving fabrics, you should use
the smaller patterns and let it out in the waist.
lady_ell
Hi disco... it also depends on how tight you
generally wear your clothes. I'm a bit smaller
than you, but pretty close in proportion, and I
tend to wear my clothes fairly tight. Modern
patterns tend to give you a LOT of extra room
to move. If I went by the measurements given on
the back of the pattern pocket, I would be wearing
sack dresses. What I'd do is get a pattern that's
in your size range, and then measure the pattern
itself (not including seam allowances) with a tape
measure and do the requisite multiplication to
see what size you really are.

Since I started doing this I've had no problems.
But because different pattern companies have
different ideas about how baggy you wear your clothes,
it can be helpful to measure everything before
making decisions. I'm generally a pattern size 8
up top but a 10 on the bottom for the fit that I
like, but according to the directions I'm a 12
all over. Having tried on a dress made in size 12
all I can say is, measure first! The 12 was eNORmous
and looked terrible.

And what Busty said about the fabrics. The amount
of give in the fabrics will vary, so the fit will
be different.

It seems horribly confusing at first, but with time
and practice you'll figure it out!


In my own news, I am having horrible bobbin problems
with a cotton stretch twill. What should my tension
be? My regular upper thread is getting all looped
up on the bottom, and I've tried increasing/decreasing
the tension but I can't get it quite right still.
veronique
I wear a 40DDD and recently found a tank top with a built in bra that that actually supports my breasts. That inspired me to sew built in cups into the spaghetti strap, and strapless tops and dresses I could never buy before. I'm pretty handy with a sewing machine but I can't find any sew-in cups in that size. If anyone knows of a retailer, that would be great.
bustygirl
Sew in cups usually only go up to a D, if even that.

You can check ann's bra shop, they might have it. Just google Ann's Bra.
txplumwine
All this help for Disco (and don't they rule for
it, D? :-) ) has made me start to wonder. Is it
*possible* that I could use a smaller pattern than
I think? When I compare my measurements to pattern
sizing, it puts me into a 32 (normally I'm a 26 -
occasionally a 28 on bottom)! But from what y'all
are saying, is it possible that I could go down some?

I think I may take LadyEll's advice and measure my
pattern. I'm starting to get this sinking feeling
that if I go with the size it says I am, I'll
unintentionally make myself a low-rise skirt.

In other news, the stuff I ordered was pretty much
SO ass that I can almost GUARANTEE I could have
done better! The only thing decently constructed
was the "bodice," which was a) too small, b)
unboned, and c) made out of such thin fabric that
it was pretty much just a vest. The "skirt" was -
I shit you not - a flat sheet sewn into a tube
with CROOKED, unfinished seams and a
shoelace for a drawstring.

An afternoon of fruitless pattern searching, but
fruitful fabric finding (sorry), has inspired me
to start working at drafting something my damn
self. Not that I would go all freehand, but I have
worked some particulars out in my head that might
get me where I want to be. I've found several
sites with instructions on how to draft simple
patterns. So, I figure, what the hell?
pepper
a good text book will serve you well.
see if you can pick one up somewhere
second hand, the local college?
pattern making for fashion design was
a good one for me in school.
does anyone know where to get pattern
blocks or do you have to make those
things yourself?
pepper
ack! can't let this thread die!
so, i'm working on (well, actually Thinking about working on) stuff for the outdoor summer market. reconned t-shirt panties, tops, skirts and dresses mostly, but i wouldn't mind doing some other stuff, maybe silkscreening some of my kookier designs on premade wearables. i don't know what else, summer is a funny time. bags are good but take too long.
any ideas busties? what would you like to see on my home-made goodies table?
dirtybunny
Pepper, what kind of market is it that you are selling at? What's the age group and price of the products the other vendors are selling? I would love to hear about what kind of fab things you make!

I'm doing goods for 2 Montreal store's but at the sametime for the "Farmer's Market" in Halifax... Sort of opposites that require different merchandise. I've had it happen where I'm stuck with really nice stuff that didn't sell because the people that were showing up were too old or too young and other times the people were caught off guard because they were just getting flowers not pretty skirts so they they had no money with them!

I'm doing bags for all them but the ones with more detail are going back with me to Mtl, I will try some of the higher end stuff at the market but not lose sleep over it selling there! Because I'm close to the water and it's hot I'm doing easy tank tops and bathing suits and nice but less trendy bags.

pepper
right, that's why this thread was dying. it's all screwy. sorry to all but i am going to bump it until it's right again.
pepper
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pepper
Yeah! it worked!
sorry for all the bumps but this thread was way wonky and needed some fixing.
so, dirty bunny, what i'm making for the local market here are pretty simple garments, i'm trying for one of a kind, bright and colourful easy to put together, washable, one size fits most things. keeping the price range around thirty bucks per piece to keep it affordable but make it worth my while. maybe some smaller things for smaller prices to round out the table. and i would Love to do some bags but my time is limited right now. we'll see what happens.
tell me more about your stuff. i don't have a lot of experience with markets but my dad used to make great little things out of stained glass when i was little. i always loved the craft fairs we went to, they were so full of fun stuff and people, it's neat to recapture that energy for myself and my little guy. i hope he gets into it and wants to make some cool stuff for the table too. puppets would be fun, or i could get him some doll forms to decorate. hee, might just be fun as christmas gifts for the family.
tyger
pssst, pepper. the way archives work is once there are fifty posts on the first page, the 25 oldest get archived. so the big white spaces aren't necessary, you just need to get enough posts above the wonkifying one. but i agree, once a thread is stretched is is a great big pain in the fanny!
pepper
ok, thanks! i wasn't sure and it was taking SSOOO long to get this thread back in shape. a labour of love man, a labour of LOVE i say!!!
fiercetastic777
I can pretty much do my own mending, and that is about it. But I really want to make myself some hella cheap sundresses because New Orleans is going to be SO HOT this summer. Any ideas of where to go to find patterns and instructions? I am a total beginner, remember.
pepper
you know what? the fabric store is the best place to buy patterns. they have books and books of them and will generally order in whatever style you want if it's not one they carry in the store. AND the ladies will give you tips on fabric choice and sewing too. i love fabric store ladies, they know so much.
fiercetastic777
Hey thanks pepper! It was that or sarongs, and I do love a challenge.
dirtybunny
Pepper sorry I didn't reply sooner. The one size fits most is a good idea! Too bad I'm too contrary to do that...While I'm in Halifax for the summer I'll be selling at the Farmer's Market, seeing as I only have a small space to work with and the crowd is mixed I'm doing simple bags and some one of a kinds (tops, dresses and skirts). I use a mix of vintage fabrics from all over hell and creation (Sally Ann being being my fav)and my prices range from $35.00 -$200+ it depends on what I'm doing and the time I put into it; for the Market I'm keeping in the $35-60 range. I'm doing bathing suits too but am not sure weither or not I will make multiples of them...very time consuming but good if you are an odd size.

I've been making my own crafts and clothes since I was in elemantry school! I had a Barbie and Cabbage Patch kid momopoly; then went onto prints and jewelry at the craft markets. I studied fashion design and have been selling clothes and bags primarly for the past 8 years. I prefer to remain an independant designer and not work for "the man" for so many reasons but mostly for the creative independance. If anyone has questions or wants help I'm more than happy to help!

Fiercetastic777- When I want a simple pattern (that I'm later going to abuse) or fabric to practise on I go to Walmart, I hate them but they have patterns for $4. Also go to second hand stores and look at the old bedsheets, they are pretty and lightweight and hopefully not stained, eww! They also have old sewing books for $2 that can give beginners good pointers. An easy dress to start with: Cut a long rectangle, sew up the sides and add a drawstring or elastic at the top. Slip it on over your head and belt it under your bust for an empire shape (hot on anyone!) or low on your waist for a more chill look! Presto! New dress for hot weather!

Sorry for the supper long post ((from the the East coast))
pepper
oh, me too db. where did you go to school? i went to george brown the year after they moved from the kensington market campus to casa loma (sad). it was a pretty good intensive two year program, but i already had granny school under my belt. i especially liked the pattern drafting and i would have loved the fabric science if the teacher hadn't been an absolute bore. so sad that, she was really a catastrophe of an instructor. oh well, the text book was awesome!

i've only made bikinis for myself but i'm starting on one for a friend out of this incredible sequined (kinda) camo spandex, omg is it ever spectac! but totally custom, i don't think i want to make more than one of those. a fussy process for such a teensy garment, no? pain in the ass really.

most of the garments i'll make for the market will be out of reclaimed fabric, espec t-shirts. it's so easy to work with, great colours and patterns, all kinds for not much money at thrift stores, and looks great with the seams and edges serged. i'm into functional, washable, wear anywhere, stretch to fit, fun and easy to make while being very well made. i do one size fits all because i am my only always accessible model. i am tall and slim though so unless it's out of super stretch it's only one size fits all other girls my size :o( gotta work on that.
dirtybunny
Pepper do you mean Kensington Mrkt in Calgary?! I loved that area! I went to LaSalle College and then finished my last year at Int Academy of Desing both in Mtl. They were more of a buisness then a school but I learnt alot! I'm more of a drapper than a pattern drafter but will do it when I have to! I loved the fabric science and my teacher was the same for several classes. She was this smart pothead quebecquois (sp) who loved those that had passion and paid attention to what she taught, we got along so well!

I too use myself for sizing but am all t'n'a and at 5'9 and size 14 not many take my size! I basically make size sm, md and lrg and tailor whatever else needs to be done in between! I make the bathing suits as special order as they are so time consuming for such a little bit of material! I do alot of tankini's for special sizes. Halter tops and aprons tops both with support for us busty chickas! For the bottoms I do boy shorts or another version I worked out...I hate grading patterns though!


pepper
kensington market in toronto. wish it had been in montreal with your faboo teacher though. i didn't get any draping at all, and i also HATE pattern grading. a couple years after school i gave away all of my pattern blocks in three sizes and have no idea where to find them again short of making my own (gah, no!).
hmm, the girl i'm constructing for is all t'n'a and about 5'7". i'm doing a halter tank for her and boy cut bottoms as well with some rutching on the sides. thankfully she doesn't need a lot of support in the boobage area but i wouldn't mind some suggestions from you about that and shaping anyhow. maybe we could correspond and send each other pics? i love doing costumes especially and have a few house-y things i've done around my apartment. let me know if you're interested.
fiercetastic777
Dirtybunny, that is perfect! I am going to Jo Ann's for fabric, as most of the second hand stores I used to shop at are still remodeling (Katrina, that bitch!). I am really excited about your advice, thanks again.
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